Today I went out surfing. It was the fifth or six time I try surfing.
I learnt that:
- It requires mental focus as much as physical flexibility, reflexes, balance and endurance.
- Getting from the beach through the breaking waves to the area passed the breaking waves where I wait to catch my wave, is exhausting.
- When I (try to) pop-up, my right knee drags against the board. My next step is to learn to pop-up without any other points of contact with the board than my hands and my back foot.
- Waxing the board helps a lot. But since I am dragging my knees, it also scrapes them.
- Paddling to catch a wave is also exhausting.
- When I am paddling to catch a wave but fail to gain match the wave’s speed, the wave catches up with me and elevates the back of my board and I nose dive.
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